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Reviving a pair of Calindas

 
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SaSi
Senior Contributor 200+


Joined: 24 Aug 2008
Posts: 223

PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reviving a pair of Calindas Reply with quote

I recently purchased a pair of Calindas. Externally they appeared in fair/good condition save for the fact that someone lacquered them with off-white paint, probably to address a veneer issue.

Going "deeper" I discovered a few more issues. One of the PRs has the spider detatched from the basket. The spider itself appears to be in fine shape and seems to be a candidate for re-glueing to the basket. As it is, the "compliance" seems to be too high.

Another issue is that one of the two B200s seems to be saging a bit. The voice coil rubs and the sound is intermittent and crackly. Perhaps rotating it 180 degrees might help, but;

I noticed that the B200s are SP1039, instead of the documented SP1054 that is supposed to be in the Calindas. The driver is definately a small magnet version, like the SP1014 in magnet size.

And finally, one of the crossovers seems to have an issue in the HF circuit. There seems to be no output from the T27. I connected the tweeter directly to the amp (at a very low volume) and sound is definatelly coming out of it.

So here we go:

I do have a pair of SP1054 drivers, so the plan is to replace the two SP1039 with them. And as I also have a small issue with one of my 104ab B200s (the surround is stretched flat), it looks like the second "wrong" driver will find a good place.

I replaced the B139 with another that was in good shape (although stored for almost 30 years) and think about re-glueing the surround on the faulty one.

What puzzles me is the crossover. I can make some measurements using an RMS meter but will probably find that the output to the HF section isn't there.

Looking at the Calinda's crossover here it looks like there is no obvious reason for that unless all capacitors have gone open. It doesn't really make sense as the LF section seems to operate fine and the other speaker is also ok. There is no rust on the solder side or broken trace on the PCB.

Should I just replace all capacitors on both crossovers and be done with it?
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ColinR
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Joined: 31 Jul 2004
Posts: 1175
Location: Staffordshire

PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2009 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
And finally, one of the crossovers seems to have an issue in the HF circuit. There seems to be no output from the T27. I connected the tweeter directly to the amp (at a very low volume) and sound is definatelly coming out of it.



Check the wires for continuity as Calindas like Cantatas and Corellis have the individual drive unit wires knotted at some point and one or both may be broken.
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TL 200
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Joined: 27 Jul 2009
Posts: 141
Location: Emmer-Compascuum The Netherlands

PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 2:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"I noticed that the B200s are SP1039, instead of the documented SP1054 that is supposed to be in the Calindas. The driver is definately a small magnet version, like the SP1014 in magnet size."

Are you sure they are sp 1039? I own a pair of them and they do have big magnets, aren't you mistaken with the sp1063?
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speakerguru
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Joined: 18 Nov 2005
Posts: 958
Location: Green Hut, Tovil

PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2009 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TL 200 wrote:
Are you sure they are sp 1039? I own a pair of them and they do have big magnets, aren't you mistaken with the sp1063?


I can confirm that the SP1039 had a large (120mm dia) magnet. Also the top plate thickness was 1/2" as opposed to the more usual 1/4" of the 1014, 1054 and 1063
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SaSi
Senior Contributor 200+


Joined: 24 Aug 2008
Posts: 223

PostPosted: Mon Aug 17, 2009 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, you are right on the B200. It was wishful thinking on my part. The B200 that has a rubbing voicecoil is an SP1063A, small magnet version and normally used in the Corelli.

I still need to remove and inspect the other unit's drivers and crossover. Someone was definatelly inside that speaker before. The T27 might have also been replaced, as the original cables were cut and fastened to each other.

I checked the cables and also the soldering on the crossover PCB. Everything is ok and nothing is cut.

I guess the next step is inevitable: To remove the HF section components and measure them. They seem to be original factory components, based on looks, ageing and similarity with other KEF made crossovers.
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