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Restoring KEF Calindas

 
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unknowable
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Joined: 29 Mar 2010
Posts: 3
Location: Long Island, NY, USA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 5:56 pm    Post subject: Restoring KEF Calindas Reply with quote

I have a pair of Calindas that were on a shelf in my brothers basement for years. Somebody left them at a recycling center and he grabbed them.

When I looked them up I was happy to see that they are so highly esteemed.

I can see that the cabinets were once beautiful, but they are now pretty much ruined. There are rings on the tops where somebody apparently had the habit of placing cold sweaty drinks. There are also many chips at the edges of the veneer. If I get them to sound good I may re-veneer them.

When I first tested them there was no sound from the tweeters. I opened one of the cabinets and found that the 3.3uf cap had burst. It turns out that the tweeters are also both blown.

I have a pair of tweeters I bought for another project but never used. It turns out they fit the cabinets perfectly, so I decided to try them. I put one of them in the cabinet that had the intact crossover, but there was no sound. My other brother, the audio tech, thought the 3.3uf cap in this cabinet might also be bad. So I bypassed the cap with a jumper and then there was sound.

When I was replacing the blown caps I noticed the 0.6uf cap in one of the speakers was bulging slightly, so I replace that one too.

I put tweeters in both of them and tested. There was way too much midrange. I also hear a lot of midrange coming from the woofer as well.

I think these tweeters I have are too loud (SPL 90db) for these speakers, but I also think the crossovers still need work. I will be replacing all of the other caps and resistors.

About the resistors: On the schematic I found here it shows the values as 22R and 3R. Does that mean 22 ohms and 3 ohms? As I recall the resistors looked all crappy on the outside and it may be hard to read the markings.

Does anybody know the proper SPL ratings for the tweeters? I am about to order some that are rated at SPL 89.

I am so glad I found this web site. Thanks in advance for any replies. I would love to hear anyone's thoughts.
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ColinR
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Joined: 31 Jul 2004
Posts: 1175
Location: Staffordshire

PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
About the resistors: On the schematic I found here it shows the values as 22R and 3R.
Does that mean 22 ohms and 3 ohms?

As I recall the resistors looked all crappy on the outside and it may be hard to read the markings.


Yes.

Metal oxide resistors do go a bit "fluffy" over time, the values will be good though unless broken or burnt.

T27 SP1032 84dB/1W/1m, so you'll have to order some variable attenuators or get sufficient series/parallel resistors to perform 5dB attenuation using an online calculator.
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unknowable
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Joined: 29 Mar 2010
Posts: 3
Location: Long Island, NY, USA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ColinR wrote:


Metal oxide resistors do go a bit "fluffy" over time, the values will be good though unless broken or burnt.


That's good to know about the resistors. I guess I'll just leave them in place.

Quote:
T27 SP1032 84dB/1W/1m, so you'll have to order some variable attenuators or get sufficient series/parallel resistors to perform 5dB attenuation using an online calculator.


I like having a variable control, but I don't want to modify the cabinet. Where can I find an online calculator to determine a resistor network?
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unknowable
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Joined: 29 Mar 2010
Posts: 3
Location: Long Island, NY, USA

PostPosted: Tue Mar 30, 2010 9:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

unknowable wrote:
I like having a variable control, but I don't want to modify the cabinet. Where can I find an online calculator to determine a resistor network?


Never mind, I found it (diyaudioandvideo.com).

Thanks
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