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Kef 105.4 in bits and very tatty, to re-build or move on?

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Senior Contributor 100+

Joined: 13 Jan 2006
Posts: 176
Location: Edinburgh

PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 12:01 am    Post subject: Kef 105.4 in bits and very tatty, to re-build or move on? Reply with quote

Hi all, long time no post Smile

I have an old set of Kef R105.4 if you can call them that, these have had some abuse, S-Stop removed etc.

Original bass cabs had to be binned, I got some tatty replacements and cleaned them up a bit.

I have the original head cabs with have been painted a dappled gloss black, don't know if these can be stripped back and cleaned up proper?

I have 105.2 head cabs which are a ittle scuffed but not with the T33 screw holes?

I have all the bits n bobs, old mids in need of a re-cone, newish mids, newish T3 tweeters with old face plates replaced with the later type. The four bass drivers are in reasonable condition.

The S-Stop in these was removed due to a high current amp seeming to have issues with it, can't remember if it ended up being a loose crossover connection or not but they seemed a bit cleaner sounding without it. I still have it all.

When the S-Stop was removed the head hole where it went was widened to accomodate an XLR cable.

Now is it OK to run these without the S-Stop? Is the original S-Stop cable and connecter detrimental in any way? Should I source some sort of replacement if re-fitting it?

If leaving the S-Stop out is OK what options for 4 core cable to the head?, the original gland on teh bass cab only seems to accept 3 core ains flex at around 8mm-9mm thick? I guess a Neutrick 4pin on head would be fine but what cable? Or does anyone have a recommended bass cab cable gland alternative? remember it's just below the rear of the head so would have to be low profile.

All the pins on the crossovers are removed, they had been rewired with Audioquest cable direct to the PCB's.
One track on one of the crossovers is damaged at its original point, but can be traced back slightly and a new point for connection made.

Can I obtain new pins and connectors for the crossovers or is direct soldering the best option?

I have the little metal spacers for the drivers, but could use the rubber grommets? And also require decent gasket strip? Anyone know of a source for decent replacements?

I would also prefer to fit these to stands, I do not have the original wheels, and think a weighted bottom or stand would be better, not sure the skirt bottom is a good thing?

Any options or considerations as to wether to re-build or not? If re-building any consideration or tips with regard to wiring, modifications etc?

These are never going to be lookers or sellable I guess, not sure if it's worth selling the drivers.

Cheers all,
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Lee in Montreal
Senior Contributor 200+

Joined: 22 Aug 2009
Posts: 203

PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 12:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're up for some great DIY fun. You seem to have enough spares to take many directions.

If you are selling the empty 105/2 heads with the swivels, let me know.
Kef Calinda - since 1979
Kef Cantata - since 2009
Kef 105/2 - since 2009
Evo 105/2 - in the build
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Über Contributor 1000+

Joined: 31 Jul 2004
Posts: 1175
Location: Staffordshire

PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randon thoughts.

Replace S-STOP with inline Polyswitch 1.6A, 0.8A, 0.5A.

Speakerguru stated the rubber grommets were from RS Components.

Find a local Radio Rally for metal pins, 4+ multiway cable (aerial rotators) and other little bits.

The original connectors were by Molex.
This post or any other information supplied to this website or any other by myself is not available for any form of commercial purpose i.e. to hi-fi magazines or as sales and marketing material for sleezeBay or Audiodogging pimps and the like.
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VIP Contributor 500+

Joined: 06 Jan 2009
Posts: 600

PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

with regard to the sstop, I have run my 105s without the original fuses now for 30 years with no problems, although pretty well rebuilt with the crossovers now tri-wired and hard wired at the amp output terminals outside the speaker cabinets, now with three stereo ~150W power amps. So as long as you are sensible with the volume control and your amps are reliable and have good dc servo protection there should not be a problem.

I also found that simply taking the casters off leaving the rounded end mounting spikes made a good enough solution on carpeted+solid floors given the large mass of the speakers.
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