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Kef Reference 105/2 questions.

 
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oradba69
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Joined: 04 Aug 2013
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 6:39 pm    Post subject: Kef Reference 105/2 questions. Reply with quote

Hi all,
first post here after trolling quite a bit. Seems like quite a few kowledgeable people on here.
After 30 years I have bought my student fantasy speakers for the equivalant of $500.
Will post more but a few quick questions:
1. What is the verdict on lining the inside of the cabinets with sound deadening goodies like Dynamat.
2. My pair came without castors, are spikes a good alternative?

I will make a seperate post regarding my restoration progress with some pictures.
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oradba69
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Joined: 04 Aug 2013
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2013 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, another question.
Anybody has torque settings for the driver screws?
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audiolabtower
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Joined: 06 Jan 2009
Posts: 544

PostPosted: Wed Aug 07, 2013 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you just take the castors off, I have found the spigots just as effective as spikes, at least on solid floors, since they are soooo heavy. I would have the box an inch off the floor.

The Mk1 was liberally lined with bitumen pads everywhere. Obviously in the Mk2 they reckoned the bracing was enough, given the B300 mounting was not feeding the same energy into the box. Since it would make insignificant difference to the internal volume I don't see why not, except if the bass is any cleaner it might just not voice (balance) exactly as intended?

Sorry, can't help with the torque except the obvious of needing to be airtight without completely squashing the rubber.

You should enjoy them if back to spec - great speakers! Smile
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oradba69
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Joined: 04 Aug 2013
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 6:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

audiolabtower wrote:
If you just take the castors off, I have found the spigots just as effective as spikes, at least on solid floors, since they are soooo heavy. I would have the box an inch off the floor.

The Mk1 was liberally lined with bitumen pads everywhere. Obviously in the Mk2 they reckoned the bracing was enough, given the B300 mounting was not feeding the same energy into the box. Since it would make insignificant difference to the internal volume I don't see why not, except if the bass is any cleaner it might just not voice (balance) exactly as intended?

Sorry, can't help with the torque except the obvious of needing to be airtight without completely squashing the rubber.

You should enjoy them if back to spec - great speakers! Smile


Thanks a lot for the lengthy answer. I am sure going to enjoy them. Have been searching for speakers that sound right for me for quite a number of years. Currently I have a pair of SEAS Trymms with the highly acclaimed Millenium tweeter, but it just becomes tiring to listen to them.
I remembered how impressed I was with these Kefs when I was still a student and was scared that time might have moved on in speaker design and that I would be dissapointed.
Drove 700km to pick them up and when I switched them on I did not know if I should smile or cry Very Happy because the magic was back and they sounded exactly like I remember. These old ladies were as smooth as ever.
Wait I am rambling again.
Will still post a thread with pictures of the refurbishment.
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speakerguru
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Joined: 18 Nov 2005
Posts: 958
Location: Green Hut, Tovil

PostPosted: Thu Aug 08, 2013 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

oradba69 wrote:
OK, another question.
Anybody has torque settings for the driver screws?

I don't recall there ever being a torque specified or indeed set in production. The B300 was bolted down tight onto the KEF mounts and the B110 was just done by "feel", i.e. just nipped up to seal, but not so tight that the grommets were not doing their decoupling job.
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